Sunday, January 13, 2013

If it's Sunday, it must be Delhi...

January 11, 2013 - and somehow on into Sunday 1/13...

Getting ready for a long trip is always a ritual for me.  I like to come home to a clean house, so there is a long list of things to do - laundry, dishes, vacuuming, new sheets - all very organized.  Packing, however, is another thing.

I usually start packing a few days before leaving.  I have a list of items I use every time so I don't forget the little things I need on these trips - bug repellent, flashlight, stethoscope, duct tape, screwdriver, etc.  These things in addition to personal items.  I plop my one bag-to-be-checked and one carry-on where I can start putting essentials, which I gather over the week.  Lastly, I pack my clothes here and there where room remains, and how often I will have to do laundry is a reflection of how much space is left by the time I get to the clothes.  This week, I left it all to the end, and found myself this morning stuffing things wherever space would allow.  Time to leave came much too quickly.

I woke at 5:30 a.m. so I would have lots of time, but somehow it was time to leave long before I was ready.  One thing I always forget to plan for is stalking the cat.  As soon as the bags come out, he knows he will be targeted at some point.  The dog, of course, can't wait to get in the car.  The cat, running from under one bed to another and grasping at any door jam as I carry him down the hall, was making noises that would put any fire truck siren to shame.  The dog got delivered to day care, and the cat to my parents; they will both be pampered beyond belief.  I never understand what all the complaining is about.

My mother drove me to the bus, and just as we pulled up to the curb, the bus pulled up behind us.  Grabbing my things, I jumped on board and dug out my fare.  Perfect timing!

The bus was nearly empty, which is too bad.  Cars all around us with one person inside each one, while I had my own driver and not a care in the world.  I was even provided with some local color and entertainment.

Already a bit late, the bus pulled through Library Circle at Humboldt State University.  The driver announced that we would not be stopping at Valley West, one of our local shopping areas.  We got onto the freeway and headed to McKinleyville to make our way to the airport.

Almost predictably, as we passed a couple of off ramps, a male voice in the back said, "Hey, we need to go to Valley West."  The driver re-announced that he wasn't stopping there.  That same voice and a woman he was with began laughing uncontrollably, all the way to McKinleyville.  They had their bikes on the front of the bus, and decided in a Zen way that it was a good mistake as the return ride was downhill.  They got off at the first stop in McKinleyville, got their bikes down, and rode off howling.  We could still hear them laughing as we drove away. 

Another man never rang the buzzer that I could hear, but then suddenly shouted that the driver had missed his stop.  He was let out immediately, and jumped out muttering to himself.

I was the last person on the bus, and told the driver he had an interesting job.  Well, I certainly left myself open for what followed.  Over the next mile before our arrival at the airport, he talked about global warming, gun control, women's rights, Obama, birth control, and drug use.  It approached word salad, except I could follow his train of thought.  It was just a very fast train.

Finally at the airport, I called family as I had promised to let them know all was on time.  While explaining my return trip and 10 hour layover at SFO, a man overheard me.  When I hung up, he offered me one of his passes to the United Lounge at SFO, which will be a perfect place to pass that return lag.  He got to do his random act of kindness for the day, and I will have a better return trip.  Thanks, stranger!

At SFO, I followed the signs and ended up walking to the International Terminal.  I have always taken the terminal train in the past, and have missed the beautiful artwork in the halls.  I highly recommend the walk.

Eventually the nine team members due to fly out of SFO assembled and the boxes arrived.  Seeing Jim and Dora always makes me happy - all is right in the world.  The boxes have arrived, and the trip is really going to happen.

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I have never flown Emirates, and there are some nice aspects.  Best part is the aisles - the ceilings have little holes punched in theme that let light through like a starry sky.


The food is good, there are about 50 movies to choose from, and the flight attendants are proficient and a hand-picked variety of nationalities.  But the seats are small, the seat to bathroom ratio is way too high, and the overhead bins are allowed to be stuffed to the gills with what must be several times the maximum recommended weight.  Three of us were detained at security because someone had water in their bag and the lines simply stopped for about 10 minutes while they sorted it out.  By the time we got to the plane, all the bins were stuffed to the point that when opened to search for space, it was nearly impossible to get them closed again.  Some of them even did a little Jack-in-the-box thing with pieces popping out in all directions.  The only choice was to stuff the bag under the seat in front of us, which left little room for feet and legs.  I had to hear about that from the guy next to me, who felt his leg space had been cramped.  It was probably his bag that left me no room over head, but I bit my tongue.  Like a breech baby, I was scrunched in my seat and may take awhile to unfold when we finally arrive.  One good thing about this is the yoga one has to go through to maneuver out of a seat over a sleeping person to get to the bathroom or take a walk.  Most of us were in center seats, the most cramped of all.

Our flight route has taken us over Canada, between the North Pole and England, over Russia, and to Dubai.  It is a 16 hour flight, which is a new record for me.


The seats are 3-4-3 configuration, about 50 rows, and FULL, not just with bodies of adults and children but also overstuffed bags and items everywhere.  There is also a greater sense of closeness as we travel with people from other cultures who are more accustomed to smaller personal space.

There are seven other team members making their way here via Newark.  The other two anesthesiologists have already had one leg cancel and are off on a new itinerary, but the plan is still to meet up in New Delhi.  So far as we know, everyone ought to assemble there at about the same time.

The first stop after San Francisco was Dubai.  Emirates Airlines was very nice, but still sardiny-cramped.  Add all those pesky bags and this airline doesn't feel any different than the others. There was a channel on the plane that allowed us to view a camera angle from under the plane.  We were floating over unending snowy mountains in all directions.  Probably Iraq and Afghanistan; very desolate and cold.

My first reaction to Dubai:  "Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore."  I once made a rafting trip and enjoyed the serenity of the Grand Canyon, which was finished with a night in Las Vegas.  I had never felt so much disconnect and culture shock as after those meditative days with nature, then thrust into the mayhem and gaudiness of the casinos.  I had the same feeling upon arriving at Dubai.  We are making a trip to a country to work with very poor families who have suffered burns and are struggling with existence in general.  Getting in our simplify- and volunteer-mode, it was an unexpected surprise to land in this Oz-like city of posh and decadence.


The assembled team this far, at Dubai International Airport.


Anila, Beth, Nisha, Perko, Mary Beth, Fran, Kathleen and Bonnie (kneeling); about half of the team.

We were given a free hotel room by the airline to accommodate us for our long layover (9 hours).  We also were treated to a free buffet dinner.  Check-in, as with all things so far on this trip, was packed and buzzing.


Four of us darted off with a driver to see the city - he took us to the mall, where we could also see the tallest building in the world and the largest fountain in the world.  The stores were not very appealing to me - Gucci, Bloomingdales, and Cartier to name a few.  Sleep?  What, in Dubai?  No way!

Beautiful hukkahs.


Kathleen getting photos.



Tallest building in the world at 2,722 feet tall is the Burj Khalifa.
 

We saw many beautiful and artistic designs in the various domes and atria.


The four of us brave and sleep-deprived ones - Bonnie, Mary Beth, Kathleen, and Liliana.


The man walks in front of his wives.  He wanted two, so now he gets to do double the shopping.

The mall has an aquarium with all kinds of fish, including sharks.  Quite odd, here in the middle of shopping land.


We saw an amazing light and water show by one of the world's largest fountains.  See video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIW1oa1h7qo


Same names keep appearing wherever we go...


More ceiling art.  This was 3-D.

This one was very bright.  I want in my room!

Kathleen having Cold Stone Ice Cream.

Our transit at New Delhi airport was notable for many reasons. Firstly, the inside of the building had a misty look to it, as though there were smoke or pollution in the building - maybe both?  Or maybe it was just an aura.


Then, in spite of our counting and recounting, checking manifests, and taking numbers, we came up three boxes short.  It turns out they were left behind at SFO and are already making their way here, using the same route we have taken.  That means they will arrive at this time tomorrow. 

Finally, there is the issue of customs, which seems to be complicated each year for one reason or another.  Today is Sunday and as a holiday, not all the bureaucrats are present, and the boxes will be detained until tomorrow.  After much hand-wringing and negotiating, we were told the boxes could be released tomorrow.  Meanwhile, we sent the rest of the team on to our connection, and Nisha and I waited with the boxes to learn of their ultimate fate.


Customs clearance is always a challenge because we bring in many boxes of supplies, some of which could be sold or left in the country.  They want to be sure we are taking the equipment back out, or that proper duties are paid, paperwork, and so on.  Each country presents its own challenges each trip, and even the same country may have different issues from trip to trip.  Right now as we leave our boxes at customs to spend the night until they can be released tomorrow, they are each being tied with string, one by one, and sealed with a hand-melted wax seal.  The candle is burning on the table as we speak.




Most of the people we came across today were very kind and helpful, feeling sympathy for our situation.  The exception was this woman, who simply said that the boxes could not leave until we got a bond for the equipment.  In the end she was right, but no one else wanted to tell us the bad news, preferring instead to string us along with hope and maybes.  It soon became clear that the boxes were destined to have a vacation at the airport.



We were offered some fruit and reading while we waited.  And waited.  And waited...

Four of the team made the flight to Dehradun - they had come from the East Coast and were already at the flight and checked in on time.  The seven from the West Coast we sent on to make their connection after we realized the boxes would have to stay awhile did NOT get there in time, so have hired buses to drive them the six hours to Dehradun.  Nisha, Kush and I will stay behind with the boxes and make sure the missing three show up tomorrow, and then that the whole bunch of them make the truck to Dehradun.  Every one else will be there for clinic to see and schedule patients, and we will all simply have to stay up late after the boxes arrive to get the ORs set up (anesthesia stations, suction, cautery, sutures, sterile sets, autoclave, etc.).  That will have us on time for a full day of cases Tuesday and back on track.

India is a fascinating country; one of those places where you definitely know you are somewhere very different.  Money, clothing, music, culture, food, language - all serve at reminders that we are guests and very obvious ones.  India has about 14% of the world's population - over one billion - and 7% of the land.  Some of the cities are the most densely populated in the world.  Our destination, Dehradun, is northeast of New Dehli and a mountain retreat for those in the cities. It has about 1/2 million people and usually very mild weather.

There have been two recent issues of strife in the news for India - a group rape that happened on a bus, ending with the death of the victim; and skirmishes at the disputed border of Kashmir to the north.  This kind of unrest tends to remain localized, but we will be transiting New Delhi, so may see signs of unrest.  Everyone seems to be fairly seasoned and street smart for these kinds of issues.  As we sat in the commissioner's office waiting as he made phone calls, we could watch the local TV news and see that the women are up in arms.  Interesting times.


Now the day is done.  Nisha and I are at a hotel, have just pampered ourselves with room service, and await a night of restoration before we dive back into the fray at customs tomorrow.  The fate of the boxes still remains to be resolved, but we'll be back at it early.  More about that as it unfolds...


It was a very interesting experience, at a hotel in the 21st century with a computer at its desk, to have to sign a ledger to get into our room.  We encountered this many times in India - an accounting book with hand-written entries to track people or items coming and going.  From what will unfold with our boxes in the next days, it comes as no surprise...