Monday, February 27, 2012

The team morphs

Mondays are the same everywhere. Get up, get dressed, and wonder where the weekend went.

This day brought us a surprise - we lost four people Friday and Hien leaves Tuesday, but we got three new workers. The bad news - they didn't show up until their 14 hour train ride from Ho Chi Minh City ended and they made their way to the hospital. While we waited, we started off the day working with Dr. Bill on two tables - doing his paperwork and pointing him where to go, and he went simply from one case to another with no down time. It is not as fast going as two tables running simultaneously, but almost.

Up we got and headed for breakfast. We have found a corner at the hotel dining area with a long table that accommodated us all, and we sat and got some techie computer time while eating needed calories for the morning's work. The connection was not always great, but enough to check our email and read the news.

Frankie, Wendell and I left a bit early so we could take a detour and see a street market we drove by Saturday morning. We took a left where I believed the driver to have come out. Wendell and Frankie followed loyally, but I bet their eyes were rolling the farther we walked. Wendell got his photo of himself with a Sacramento newspaper in front of a buddhist monastary. We made a couple of turns, got pretty close to the hospital, but not quite there.

We passed a small table of school-age girls, sitting with their mother. They were all giggling to themselves and staring at us (I am getting used to this), and as we passed, one girl reached out with one finger and quickly touched me, like forbidden fruit or "tag - yer it". I'm sure it was to show her friends how brave she was, and they all laughed. I stopped and held my hand out to her, and she showed me very large eyes. She slowly reached out and she let me shake her hand, so tiny and very tentative like a butterfly. We made eye contact and I couldn't help but smile, and walked away. I could hear gasping and tittering behind me. Close Encounters of the Quang Ngai Kind, and I'm the alien.

We finally asked and got a direction to turn at the next street. We did that, but still nothing familiar. So we stopped at another spot - a young group at a table together outside a cafe ("Ca-phe`"). Lots of people sitting at sidewalk tables today. I asked where the hospital was, and they looked at me like I was a Martian. More alien complex coming my way. Wendell, thinking on his feet, pulled out his stethoscope and imitated a nurse. All four of the people simultaneously swung their arms east and pointed down the street. I guess they got the idea! Off we walked and made our way - finally - to the operating room, only about 10 minutes late. Dr. McClure was very calm about it, but we were all in a sweaty huff and ready for some air-conditioning and recovery time!















Nice surprise when we arrived - ANTS! They invited themselves into our storage and food room, and were trying to picnic in our food. Luckily most things were wrapped, and with a bit of clean up they made their way back outside. If that is the worst invasion we have, we will count ourselves lucky.















Soon after we started, one of the two operating lights (Frankie's pole) went dark. Presumably a new light bulb needed, but no way to find out except to dissemble the thing. It isn't until one begins to handle an apparatus close-up and in detail that the intricacies and innovation can be fully appreciated (sorry for the sarcasm). I presumed an outer glass casing came off to access the bulb, and began to try to unscrew the rusty screws. Only two of the three would budge, and then I noticed the whole glass casing would twist off. So I put the screws back, got the outer layer off, and by now our local "bio-med" guy had arrived and he replaced the bulb. Luckily that was all there was to it; problem solved. I think I threatened his job security though, so I will have to be more helpless next time.

A couple of people have mentioned how safe they feel here. I have to agree. I don't know what it is, but I had no qualms about walking anywhere. The town is fairly homogeneous in terms of neighborhoods, and these people are very family oriented. Except for the gaggles of guys we saw at restaurants now and then, smoking and talking, most people were with families or had children along. No one was really interested in us except when they were amused or inclined to give us a greeting.

Someone also commented on a photo I posted with a young father and child. Dr. McClure had mentioned earlier that it seemed so very family oriented here. The fathers were very involved, and the parents clearly dote on the children. I asked one of our co-workers if she had any children, and those around her laughed and said, "She's not married!" I guess that is the only time anyone has children; very different expectations. The government encourages having no more than two children, and most families seem to comply. The men did seem very gentle and it was difficult to envision any of them at war, but at the same time I could see how if their homeland or especially their families were threatened, that they could be very fierce.

This young child was done early in the morning, and I realized as I passed the recovery room a bit later that she was being held by a young man. This boy, at 17, was the responsible family member for his sister. His mother was sick at home, and although his aunt was with him, his sister could only be consoled by him and he was there to do just that. Many of these families are very poor, but they are rich with family bonds and the right priorities.















One of our helpful Vietnamese scrub techs had a moment of fame - her pants fell down. I have not heard so much giggling and squealing since slumber parties in 6th grade. Her friend came to the rescue, and made it right.















Our new crew members finally arrived. They came straight from the train station after 14 hours of train travel and jumped into the mix. This photo was taken of the two new anesthesia providers - nurse Khuong and Dr. Thinh. We were doing our best to pronounce their names, but there are so many nuances to the language that one can only hope to keep the mangling to a minimum. But I wahs starting to fehl at home whith the extrah lhetters.











These team members had some English skills, one of them even understandable. But we managed and I wrote lots of teaching points down so they could see the numbers and read the words. That seemed to work better.












I did have a complaint - they all had cell phones that rang all the time, and they answered no matter what they were in the middle of doing. This was the same in Africa and China. It was kind of annoying, and I certainly felt that what we were doing in the OR was more important than any call. But we tried to observe and see how things were done by the locals, as long as no patient was harmed or neglected. As much as they answer phones, they don't do paperwork. Different ways. Here is a photo of an all Vietnamese host team - scrub tech, surgeon, and nurse anesthesia.













Nurse Khuong...













Setting a good example - Dr. Bill helped with turn-over. He's a keeper!















There was sometimes confusion among patients who come to see us as to what procedures we could do. Some women came right out and asked for cosmetic procedures. A mother may bring in a child who has already had procedures, wanting a small tweak to make something look better. But usually what we offer is to improve function, and although the surgeons try to use the most aesthetic approach, function trumps appearance. We are doing quite a few nose-lip revisions for those who may have had a lip repair done in the past that pulled apart over the ensuing years, and these are in a sense more cosmetic, but do make a big difference in the lives of these young people.

Frankie is always the last one out - doors glued shut with an official paper, lights out, and a lonely dark walk down the operative suite corridor.

It has been a long day. This is about what time we arrived "late" this morning, and now the sun has been long down.













As I walked out, I noticed the many dark hospital corridors above us with the lights shining from the rooms and the shapes drifting along in front of them. Even the lobby was quite dark; often the hospitals use very few lights to save electricity. This is common in many of the places we visit. Electricity is a luxury, and is used sparingly; as is everything else. We have much to learn from our host countries.















I didn't go down to dinner, because I lay down in my room, my legs said, "Yes!" and I decided R+R would win over food. Monday was national Health Care Providers Day in Vietnam, and the hotel honored us with some flowers, of which Frankie sent me a photo. Nice touch!















Frankie is tired. She said her feet hurt, but then she realized her shoes were on the wrong feet...












But we forgive her - she is really a one-woman band!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXMuWi0dUBc

Enjoy.

Sunday, February 26, 2012

The team goes shopping

Sunday in Hoi An - a chance to play tourist. This town is full of Western tourists, so of course there are lots of shops and bargains to be had. Obviously everyone took this very seriously.

Our rooms in Hoi An at the Phu Thinh II Hotel were beautiful. The beds had large canopy mosquito netting, which Frankie and I both used. Here is Frankie looking very much like Sheherazade.
















We all had a beautiful breakfast spread in the dining room. I tried to take some photos of it, but needed new camera batteries. The hotel put out an amazing spread of all kinds of pastries, made-to-order omelettes, various sauteed and savory items, as well as fruit, juices, and great coffee. Obviously with all these choices we had to hang around a bit longer than usual to give it all a fair try. The setting was beautiful, complete with plants in bloom, chirping birds, a creek, and a very loud kitty. This poor baby, an orange tabby, would lounge around under the tables waiting for some lucky tidbits to rain his way. If he happened to be noticed by an interested party, the most pathetic atonal sound would come out of his mouth, and the volume would be adjusted by his level of desperation. I finally put a plate of left-overs down, including some omelet and ham from Wendell, and the kitty dived onto it. He did not look poorly fed - maybe a bit wormy (the kitty, not Wendell) - but he was a very cute distraction. He certainly got his breakfast's worth from our table.

Bill took off again today on his bike, so I don't have many photos of him. Wendell hit the streets early to find the best deals and do his bargaining magic. The remaining four of us - Alice, Catherine, Frankie, and I all went to the main shopping district of Hoi An to see what might grab our fancy.

Here is a photo of Wendell with one of his new shirts from the first day. He scored many good items and off he went again, only to surface later with more bounty. A man who shops well!














Yesterday Alice, Frankie, and I had gotten fitted for tailored clothing - an ao dai for Frankie and myself, and a blouse for Alice. We went there first to see if the items would fit. Mine was fine, but the garments for Frankie and Alice needed some touch-up. Catherine took this shot of Alice and I in our ao dais as they were being checked by the tailors. I think between my piano socks and running shoes, and Frankie's Keens, we may have created a new look.















We all managed to sqeeze together for a group photo - the three team members and the tailors. I didn't notice until later that the tailors were not smiling. Overwhelmed maybe?













Around every corner is more eye candy. The sidewalks are dotted with clusters of women and vendors trying to make their livings.















Colors at every turn! A beautiful medley of trees, and then this woman was selling hand-made whistles, giving demonstrations. Her sales pitch worked - everyone who came by seemed to buy a whistle.










This town is right on a river, which we finally got to see today. Not one I would want to swim in, but wide and full. Great for the many large boats that drive tourists around.









And a young man carving bamboo. Most of the shops here sell goods made by someone else, or if they are made by the shop owner, it is not where the crowds can watch. Too bad, so I very much enjoyed the opportunity to watch this artist work.















Common sight in Hoi An and throughout Vietnam - woman balancing goods on a bamboo pole over her shoulder with traditional peasant farmer's hat.












Wendell came back - loaded with great finds. How DOES he do it?!!















Then - to the sea! The South China Sea and a view of the Cham Islands.












Frankie, Wendell, and Bill; Catherine; and Alice.


























Rub-a-dub-dub
two nurses in a tub,
and who do you think they be?
Wendell and Frankie
acting kind of spankey,
waiting to go to sea!













Areca nut (betel) smile. (Good read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Areca_nut)













Beautiful beach. Hard to believe we had to get back to get ready for work. At least we are refreshed again!













The ride back was a long one, with nodding heads and dozing brains. Three hours of viewing this land as we drive by gives one a feel for life here. Mostly rice patties, and not a piece of machinery to be seen. Just hard-working people with hoes and water buffalo. We are a long way from home.

That is not to say the ride was uneventful. Like most places we visit, driving is a real E-ticket (OK, for those of you not old enough to remember, that was the old ABCDE system of ticketing at Disneyland - the Merry-go-round was an "A ticket", and the good, fast rides required an "E ticket"). The "highway" that runs up and down the coast of Vietnam is a two lane road with small lanes on either side for bikes. We rarely saw a passenger car, as most of the population cruises through life with a bicycle or motor-scooter. The bicycles stay on the outside fringe, the scooters live on the edge and ride a bit in the road just next to the bicycle lane, and the trucks and vehicles drive down the lanes.

There is, however, this water ballet of passing that happens, and since there is no middle or passing lane, an interchange happens when a passing vehicle moves into the oncoming lane, honks and speeds up while the passengers (us) hope for the best. Most of the time it works, but occasionally an oncoming truck - blinking its lights (seemingly indicating "CHICKEN!!!") and refusing to back down - causes the whole pattern to scatter. For a brief moment the road somehow expands to accommodate 3 trucks across the middle, the passing and blinking and honking (and us gasping) is over, and the road resumes its deceiving order. I never looked back, but I can imagine occasionally the bicyclists get scattered off the road and into the rice fields on the sides.

Upon returning, we all cleaned up and took a break, then went to dinner together. We found out that our next new surgeon will be surfacing sometime after 10 a.m. Monday morning if all goes well. We have a full day of 12 cases, including 5 palates, so it may be a late day, as Bill has to proctor (watch and assess) the new surgeon for safety, experience level, and autonomy. Also no word when the additional anesthesia staff will be here; so we may really have to wing it. Good thing we are all somewhat restored after our weekend adventures.

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Hoi An - day off

First thing Saturday we packed up in a van with a driver to take us about 2 1/2 hours north to Hoi An. Our first stop was the hospital to see and discharge patients from last week.


























Once underway, we began the drive north over the same road we used to travel from Da Nang after our days of traveling, but that had been in the dark. It is an interesting stretch of road shared with large trucks, vans, scooters, bicycles, pedestrians and animals, but few automobiles.

A few minutes north of Quang Ngai, we stopped at a Memorial for the Massacre at Son My, known as My Lai Massacre. There is an interesting museum with a wall of names, many familiar photos of the incidents and the people involved, artillery shells, and other glass cases of found articles. It was extremely moving to me to see this location, the representative vestiges, recreated homes, and the peaceful, beautiful surroundings of this devastating time in history. There were gardens, home foundations, lists of names, and statues amongst plantings, original trees, rice fields, and a stone walk imprinted with boots and bare feet. A week of caring for our patients put very personal faces upon this memorial and made it hard to process.














































After this very somber detour, we proceeded further north in our van to our destination, Hoi An. A popular destination for tourists, this town is on the China Sea and is an UNESCO World Heritage site. It was for centuries a site of very active trading and a busy port. There still remains an ancient part of town with old buildings with ornate decorations.

Our hotel, Phu Tinh, is a resort-like place with pool, covered outdoor dining, and beds with canopy mosquito netting. It has lovely gardens complete with birds, flowers, and trellised vegetables.
















Let the R&R begin!

























Then there was sight-seeing and shopping...






































And of course the open markets.