Oumar and Massaran's wedding
The rest of the team made an interesting outing to Mopti - flew via plane, 4-wheel drive to the caves and villages, long ride over "roads" to hotel, and then home early Sunday. Pam, Chuck, and I stayed back to go to Oumar's wedding. It was a magical event.
The invitations explain the whose who - It is Oumar and his best friend marrying their fiancees at a double wedding. Oumar is marrying the sister of his best friend. All but Oumar's femme are doctors, and the extended families are large.
Pam, Chuck and I loaded into Moussef's taxi. He is always good for a wild ride. I'm not sure his brakes are long for this world. Last week he took a crowd to dinner, and they ran out of gas on the way back. Had to push the car and fuel up. Never a dull moment.
The beginning of the ride always starts out with bartering. How much will the ride cost? Will he wait for us or come back? A few growls and laughs and the deal is done. Chuck always wins. The ride is about 1/2 hour, and we think the president is driving somewhere as many streets are blocked off for his security. This brings us down many side roads and an up close view of some of the dwellings.
The wedding is to be held at the Baobab Hotel. There is a large circular space with a grass roof that looks very much like the South Pacific. A few smaller circular grass-covered areas with tables are about the garden. Many chairs are set up in a circle around the large space for viewing the ceremony.
Everyone is dressed to the nines. There are three beautiful girls, two of whom are twins, who seem to be flower girls. Sisters and friends are bridesmaids.
We got there right at about 3:45 pm. We waited quite awhile, and then the wedding party arrived. First was Oumar's friend and his wife-to-be. Everyone was so well-dressed and handsome.
Next came Oumar and his wife-to-be. Massaran was beaming, as was he, but in between Oumar looked a bit tired. We know how hard he has worked the last week, but he managed to keep smiling. They all marched into the large covered area and sat at a long table side by side.
This little girl's hair caught my eye. Her mom was busy with two other children, but they were all behaved and curious. I saw a few babies passed around across the crowd, and not a peep from them. The sense of family here is very large, and many people are called "brother" or "sister" who may not really be that close a relation. But the more the merrier!
The wedding party sat at a long table under the covered area, very much like a conference. They were sitting for the ceremoney, and at one point passing and signing papers.
The audience was very colorful and interactive. We were all allowed to come up on the stage area to take picture, say hello, and mingle a bit.
During their time at the table, a griot was singing to the couples, almost like a roast. I could understand when the names were said and a word now and then like "lion" (in French), but Bambara was used and in the singing tones, I just could not understand. But the crowd would respond with joy at various intonations.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Griot
After the wedding, everyone wanted to congratulate the wedding party. Smiles all around, more from the griot, and more music from the DJ.
The wedding party came down to the grass for photos with their families. I caught Oumar looking at me, pushing through the crowd. He was very happy, and Massaran so beautiful.
Dr. Kaeta was there with his group of surgeons - Zacharia, the residents and interns. We looked for them later, but could not find them.
Then the wedding party left. Apparently they went to have dinner with the grandparents. Oumar's parents are in another location, and they are going to repeat the whole ceremony again in a week's time. He is having a busy break from his studies!
The guests all remained behind at the hotel. There was a DJ who was playing Malian music, some with a Hip-Hop quality, and there were many girls and young women who were dancing. They were all laughing and being silly. I was enjoying all the colors, the many hats, and the interactions between family members. It was a very sociable, tight-knit crowd.
There were four very beautiful women who appeared to be like bride's maids. Two were sisters of Oumar's bride, and two were her friends. The three of us pale folks were sitting under one of the covered areas at a table. The ladies came over to pamper us and be sure we were taken care of, bringing drinks and making a visit. They even posed for photos, and then insisted on a silly shot. Girls just wanna have fun!
Another sister of the bride came over and sat with us awhile, chatting in French. I was doing all I could to keep up and understand, and she asked me if I ever talked. It was taking me too much brain power translating to say anything back! She was very sweet.
After dark the wedding party returned and the food was served. We were served a platter of food on what was the size of a cafeteria tray. Stripe of noodles down the middle, and on the left beef, and the right chicken. Three forks were placed on the noodles, and we were to dig in and feast! It was more than enough food for six people. Pam and I did not eat, so Chuck got to fill himself to the brim.
Oumar and Massaran made their rounds to each of the tables to greet their guests, as did the other couple. It is a very wonderful tradition, and made us all feel welcome and appreciated. Nice to get a chance to see them up close as man and wife.
Soon after this our trusty chariot Moussef came to bring us home, and I fell into a deep sleep. Hurrah - Sunday sleep in!
